Ok, I’ll admit it, I’m a little behind when it comes to loving shellfish, or seafood in general. But you would be, too, if you were raised Seventh-day Adventist. I was taught that all shellfish are unclean and, if you eat them, you are essentially poisoning your body, and worse. Over the years, I have developed my own beliefs about food. Turns out, eating highly processed soy turned into fake meat is also very harmful to your body, which I grew up eating instead of shellfish. And let’s not get into fast food, snacks, soda, and the like. So, to make a long story short, I am a late bloomer when it comes to enjoying seafood. But when I did, it took me no time at all to fall in love with lobster, a little more time with crab, scallops, and clams. Even more recently, like five decades into my life, I am falling in love with raw oysters.
And here is what I have learned about raw oysters: every oyster from every region collected is going to taste uniquely different from another region. Have you found that to be true, too? Hog Island Oyster General Store & Hog Shack on Tomales Bay is one of my favorite spots I’ve discovered. My friends, you can’t get fresher than the source. Sure, you can find Hog Island oysters in multiple restaurants, but there is something irreplaceable about sipping on a cold beer and watching them being processed right in front of you. But don’t let me get ahead of myself!
It’s midday when it’s not quite summer, and yet spring is slipping away into the hourglass of time. A new season is about to begin. The morning’s overcast gives way to the sun’s reach earlier than it would have only a few short weeks ago. The marine air is thick, arms stretched high into the firmament. For a few moments longer, the sky and water are still one. I’m not in a hurry; my stomach is still quite full, in fact, from my first stop at Route One Bakery & Kitchen. So I let my car meander through the twists and turns of Highway 1, past the pungent, always-shedding eucalyptus trees, all the while watching the veil between water and sunlight thin. In less than an hour, I will be shading my eyes against the bright, bright sky. So I breathe deeply in the salty, perfumed air as my destination nears. Hog Island General Store is easy to spot. When you see the cars parked on the side of Highway 1, you know you’ve arrived, and yes, parking can take some time.
Just in front of where I park sits a rather large pile of discarded oyster shells, and I can’t help but smile at the thought of hungry travelers enjoying a spontaneous oyster picnic on the side of the road. I continue my stroll until I reach several buildings and an unmarked opening between them. The outdoor dining area straight ahead on the shore of Tomales Bay is a dead giveaway that I have arrived. To the left are bathrooms and an open-door farming facility full of tank upon tank of all things shellfish, with hoses and pipes constantly circulating fresh seawater. Thank goodness for the boardwalks keeping my feet dry!
Closer to the bay, most of the action is happening. Behind clear plastic walls, two men wearing rubber boots and yellow rubber overalls sort and wash bucket upon bucket of oysters on a conveyor belt. I am overwhelmed with the sheer volume being cleaned. These two men are still hard at work when I take my first sip of beer. To my right is the bay, which should be consuming all of my attention, but I am mesmerized by this working facility where all the magic is taking place right in front of me.
And then it happens: my very own selection of fresh raw oysters arrives, all served on their own individual shell plates. Simple and yet elegant is nature’s way. A squeeze of lemon all around and a dash of Hog Island’s own homemade hot sauce, and the first oyster is already gone, with a second in hand.
And here is where eating oysters differs from eating other foods. Sure, one could scarf them down between big gulps of beer, but then it would be over too soon, and I would miss the essence, flavor, and nuances that make this region unique and set apart from other oyster farms. This is what I taste: subtle flavor, possibly more earthy than other oysters I’ve had in the past, smooth for sure, just the right amount of saltiness, and I am delighted with the punch of Hog Island’s hot sauce as it somehow combines all the flavors with just the right hint of vinegar and heat.
I am won over and do order a second beer because the show is still going on, as yet another bucket is turned over with a sound of crashing shells for, perhaps, tonight’s patrons.
If raw oysters aren’t your cup of tea, but you still want the show, there are several other items on the menu you can enjoy. However, if the show inspires you to try a safe adventure, Hog Island does have a store with a selection of preserved shellfish. My favorite is the jar of smoked oysters. But do be careful, once that jar is open, it’s really hard to spread it out over more than one sitting. It would seem I am a fan of oysters in any form!
20215 Shoreline Hwy
Marshall, CA 94940
(415) 663-9218
