It’s a bright September afternoon when fall colors begin to tempt the season’s change, shadows grow long, and the sun’s glow turns golden. It’s the annual pause of nature appreciating the abundance of all the life she has birthed through the season before she drifts off into winter slumber. And as she exhales in admiration, so too do I as I make my way along the shores of Clear Lake on Lakeshore Drive, heading out on the peninsula. The drive isn’t as new to me as it once was, but I appreciate it just as much as my first trip.
My destination isn’t far; about halfway out on the peninsula shoreline is the newly reopened Pine Dell Grocery & Deli. Owners: Naseem and Humayoon Lodhi recently moved to Lake County from Tahoe to be nearer to their kids. But opening a deli isn’t new to them; they owned and operated a deli and gas station for years in Tahoe, and Via Magazine even named it one of the best gas station food destinations in the area. Of course, the article was more keen on their food than on filling up for gas. Nevertheless, Naseem has brought her culinary magic with her to Lake County, and I can’t wait to experience it for myself!
One wonderful thing about the food at Pine Dell is the choices. How do you like your gyro, birria, or tandoori chicken? You can have it served in a wrap, a bowl, or on a pizza. I chose a gyro wrap, a tandoori bowl, and a birria pizza. Yes, I definitely ended up taking food home.
The tandoori chicken sits on delicately seasoned basmati rice, with a salad and homemade dressing on the side. The chicken is brightly colored and flavored, creamy, and fills the mouth with spices. It’s also got a gentle kick of heat that comes through as you eat. It’s hard not to scrape the sides of the box when you’re done, though. Naseem makes the seasonings herself, then tops it with another dollop of her exquisitely flavorful green sauce.
And I’ve never had a gyro like Pine Dell makes. Neither has Naseem. “I’ve traveled all over the world and never found a gyro like mine,” she says, and I completely agree. “Usually gyros use store-bought bread, and it tastes sour. I make my naan daily from scratch, often to order, so it’s fresh.” She then stuffs it with perfectly seasoned meat, tomatoes, fresh greens, cucumber, and purple cabbage, tops it with her homemade tzatziki sauce, then wraps it up and heats it on a panini press. The gyro comes out warm, crisp, and dripping with goodness. It’s huge! Each gyro is enough for two. And it’s special, like what a homemade gyro made with love tastes like. The gyro alone is worth two, three, or four more visits.
But there’s still the pizza! The pizza crust is Naseem’s homemade naan, chewy and flavorful, topped with the perfect amount of cheese, fresh onion, and birria. The meat is spectacular–it would be incredible in a bowl or wrap and hold its own, and is like none other I have tasted. It’s richly seasoned and has an Indian-food depth that goes so well with the classic birria flavors and leaves me craving more. It comes fresh out of the oven, and the cheese stretches out perfectly with each piece I pick up. The only problem is that by the time the pizza arrives, I’m full from the tandoori chicken and gyro. But I can tell you that even after I took it home, it reheated perfectly.
If you’re craving dessert, you have to try her baklava. It’s unique–most baklava is layered. Naseem’s is not–it looks like a small bird’s nest filled with a delightful mixture of honey, nuts, and a drizzle of creamy, sweet pistachio. The first bite gets you past the edge of the nest and hints at the tastes to come. Once you’ve hit the middle, you will be overwhelmed by the depth of flavor.
Naseem also sells her spice mixes–I picked up a jar of tandoori seasoning and some of her chai tea mix. I made her chai for the first time this morning, and was overwhelmed. Its earthy notes draw from exotic, deep roots of spices, flavors, and blends unlike anything I have experienced before. And now I can enjoy it at home all season long.
I take one more look around the deli as I chat with Naseem. She tells me all about the rose petals she recently purchased on her travels and how she uses them in so much of her food and the uniqueness of her secret spice blends–I am captivated. It isn’t just that Naseem is a seasoned chef; it’s the feeling that her kitchen is merely an extension of herself, her bright spirit, and love for what she does. It’s the feeling that when she cooks in her deli, she is cooking for family, as if I were her own daughter. I can see a strong sense of pride and satisfaction in her art through her smile now, and I know I’ll leave as a friend, not just a customer. It’s an experience I will return to time and time again.
Pine Dell Market and Deli
10920 Lakeshore Dr.
Clearlake, CA 95422
(707) 461-4174
Pine Dell also does DoorDash.
